Ukha

Ukha is one of the oldest soups of Russian cuisine. At one time, this word referred to various types of broth, including meat and poultry ones, but over time the name became attached to fish soup. On the Volga, ukha made from sterlet and other river fish is well known; in northern regions, it is made from the local catch. Its character is defined by a rich fish broth and a moderate amount of additions, allowing the taste of the fish to be preserved.

Ukha is considered one of Russia’s oldest soups often associated with the Cossack and river-fishing traditions of Russia. It is a transparent and intense fish broth made usually of white freshwater fish of one or more types, as well as three vegetables: potatoes, carrots and onions with simple seasonings (bay leaf, black and allspice). Older recipes kept vegetables to a minimum, because the fish flavor was meant to stay dominant. Ukha is strongly linked with outdoor cooking, especially by fishermen and people cooking at riverbanks or lakesides. Some traditions include adding a small shot of vodka at the end. Sometimes cooks add a burning piece of wood or charcoal to ukha as a fishing-camp ritual for a smoky aroma.

Ukha is a dish that doesn’t tolerate excess. I love ukha; it’s one of those things I cherish not just as a chef, but as a person.

My grandfather used to go fishing often. He’d usually bring back small fry, and my grandmother would make ukha from them. It was the simplest kind: fish, potatoes, onion, water—and that was it. No complex techniques, no list of ten ingredients. Yet, to me, it was the most delicious food in the world.

Now, I view ukha from a professional perspective. A good ukha relies on a quality fish stock made from two or three types of white fish

represented by

Andrey Shmakov

cooking
time 60 min

difficulty
level easy–medium

key
ingredients 6

Ingredients

water

2 liters

whole fresh fish (cod, perch, pike,
bream or mixed white fish)

1 kg

medium potatoes,
diced

2–3 pcs

medium onion,
finely chopped

1 pcs

medium carrot,
sliced or grated

1 pcs

bay leaves

1–2 pcs

sprigs fresh dill,
plus extra for garnish

1–2 pcs

sprigs fresh parsley,
plus extra for garnish

1–2 pcs

green onions or chives,
chopped

1–2 pcs

salt and black pepper

to taste

Recipe

Fillet the fish and put fillets aside.

Rinse the fish head, bones, and tail and put them in a large pot with water, 1 bay leaf, and a bit of salt.

Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for about 30-40 minutes to extract flavor.

Strain the broth, discard the bones, and return the clear broth to a clean pot.

Add potatoes to the broth (or water), bring to a boil, and cook for about 8–10 minutes until they are almost tender.

Add chopped onion and carrot, then cook for another 8-10 minutes until the vegetables are soft.

Add the fish and herbs. Cut the fish fillet into chunks and add to the pot.

Simmer on low for about 5-10 minutes until the fish is just cooked through and flakes easily; do not boil hard or the fish will break apart. Add chopped dill, parsley, green onions, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning.

For a bright touch, stir in a little lemon juice at the end if you like.

10.

Serving

Ladle the ukha into bowls. Serve with dark rye bread or plain bread.

11.

Hints

Fish is the main ingredient of any ukha. The fresher it is, the richer and more aromatic the taste of the finished soup will be. Ukha can be cooked with just one type of fish if it is valuable — for example, sturgeon or sterlet, but in most cases, a delicious ukha involves several types of freshwater (river) fish. Using river fish is not necessary, it may be replaced with a variety of bream, cod and small white saltwater fish. Using red fish as salmon is appropriate too, though it’s a little less traditional.

The order of laying fish in the ukha is very simple: the last is usually the most valuable and expensive type of fish. Before the end of cooking, a glass of vodka is often poured into the soup — to get rid of the smell of ooze (characteristic of a freshwater fish), can be skipped if cooking with seawater fish. Another entertaining hint: a smoldering ember is added to ukha right in front of the guest — it adds characteristic aroma of the campfire to the taste. It’s often finished with chopped garden herbs — dill or green onions to taste.

No seafood — shrimp, mussels, lobsters, vongole — just fish. The broth for ukha is never seasoned with thickeners such as flour or cereals. Vegetables are never fried before being added to the soup — always added raw. No oil or butter.

where
to try

Dich (Game)

Sochi

A restaurant in the Gornaya Olimpiyskaya Derevnya (Mountain Olympic Village) at altitude, where game and everything connected to nature take center stage. The menu features elk shchi, venison beefsteak, and dishes made from wild boar, roe deer, and duck. The chef works with local hunting and fishing trophies, transforming them into bold yet refined gastronomic hits.

Tugan Avylym

Kazan

Set within a charming complex styled as a traditional Tatar village, Tugan Avylym offers an immersive introduction to the region’s cuisine and culture. Classic national dishes, wooden architecture, and authentic interiors create one of Kazan’s most distinctive dining experiences.

Café Pushkin

Moscow

One of Moscow’s most iconic restaurants, Café Pushkin recreates the atmosphere of a 19th-century aristocratic mansion. It is renowned for classic Russian cuisine served in beautifully preserved historic interiors.